No.23 SRT Anchor Part２ June.04.2015
key words : DSRT (double single rope technique), TRT (twin rope technique), Equalizing Anchor, Retrieve, Knot Blocking, Compatibility,
SRT development continues to move at a fast pace, there are ideas coming out that enable the climber to achieve incredible actions of movement and astounding work positions. Most recently a bizarre technique has emerged that allows anchor retrieving on the same principal as the Ddrt anchor retrieve. Ddrt has 1 golden technique that is normally difficult for the srt climber to achieve, that of retention of the Working End while climbing that gives quick and simple anchor setting and retrieve.
DSRT
Double Single Rope Technique is the use of 2 working lines and 2 belay systems. This can be set-up in a number ways and gives a multitude of options to the climber. DSRT should not be confused with Double Crotching, a technique used by Ddrt climbers to create opposing anchors for balance. DSRT is set-up in such a way to give equalised anchor forces and zero friction build up to allow the climber to use never thought of before re-directs and incredibly safe and simple returns(Osaka san, I mean modoru. climbing back to the main anchor point).
3 Ring System
3 ropes of indeterminate length are knotted, spliced or stitched to an anchor ring. Either 2 legs are trunk anchored to form a highline or 1 leg is anchored to create 2 available working lines. The 2 lines can be footlocked or a single leg can be Rope Rocketed. 1 line may be employed for work and the other for rescue. 2 lines may be used for DSRT technique.
Setting the ring on the trunk anchor side of the climbing system means that the 2 working legs are independent of each other, meaning 1 rope does not pull at the other when weighted. The example in the Keiaki shows otherwise.
The climber can confidently re-direct to very high areas as the low anchor is retained and forces are loaded equally on the 2 lines. Now that 2 independent anchors are established the climber can move anywhere between these anchors with incredible ease. The climber may return to the low anchor to retrieve the re-directed line.
SRT Pulley Saver (2 System Loop)
The Wooden Hand has customised Teufelbergers Pulley Saver for SRT use by removing the Pinto pulley loop and replacing it with a 2 ring loop. The SRT Pulley Saver uses 28mm rings and the small sized retrieval cone. Using rings allow the climber a number of techniques.
1.Ddrt
Ddrt technique is performed with the friction co-efficancy of a normal ring and ring style cambium saver.
2. Knot Blocking The use of a compatibly sized ring and rope allows a knot to be tied and used to block force at the ring. Incompatible size, a ring too large for the rope or a rope too small for the ring, will mean that force is not blocked because the knot will pass through the ring when the line is weighted, the climber will fall.
1 rope may be blocked for a length adjustable SRT line. The possibility of retrieve is available if the standing line is passed to the floor.
Additionaly
2 ropes may be blocked for DSRT technique. Adjusting length over the low friction aluminium rings, rather than tree bark, s very easy to do.
The lines separate when loaded and the anchor rings move freely.
3. DdRT and SRT
A Revolver carabiner can be installed in the ring to allow a Ddrt system to run next to an SRT system. The climber can use the Ddrt system to retrieve the SRT system with 2 additional items, large retrieval cone and XSRE carabiner. If bend radius is a concern for the running Ddrt line an oval carabiner and small pinto pulley may be used.
4. TRTS and SRT
Welcome to the bizarre world of Twin Rope Technique!
2 x 8mm-8.7mm dynamic or double braid ropes are tied to an anchor ring, this forms into a rope with the ring at the centre and it can be used in a variety of ways. It can run naturally through a crotch to make a twin line foot-locking system and because it is used with the Rope Runner is a descendable system. The light weight line is very easy to pull through crotches and is un-likely to cause any damage to thin skinned trees. As TRT holds the Working End at the climber, like Ddrt, the system is quickly and easily retrievable from any position.
When changing anchor to the SRT Pulley Saver the climber unties and reties 1 anchor knot on the TRT system.
With 1 ring left unused at the SRT Pulley Saver a DSRT system can be made. The Alpine Butterfly is backed up with a daisy chain and the XSRE carabiner is attached as the primary retrieving connection. Notice how the TRT ring connects to the working end of the 2nd system. That the TRT ring can be quickly repositioned, I think may create potential for undiscovered technique.
The 2nd system may be left redundant and then pulled to the climber, via the TRT system anchor ring, when needed. (bottom right photo)
Video example of TRT and SRT retrieve:
TRT Retrieve from Paul Poynter on Vimeo